Showing posts with label for. Show all posts
Showing posts with label for. Show all posts

Saturday, March 8, 2014

To Dig or Not to Dig Are No Dig Planting Methods for Real

photo by Jim Richardson, National Geographic

One recent garden trend that is spreading with inexorable speed is the “no-dig” or “no-till” method of planting.  The basic idea is that plants are installed directly into the ground without tilling or turning over the soil.  While this method is centuries old, it challenges conventional gardening practices of tilling and breaking in the soil before one plants.

I’ve been aware of this method for a while, but have been surprised by how quickly it has become dogma, particularly within sustainable landscape circles.  When teaching a class on soil preparation, I mentioned tilling and watched as many of the students recoiled in protest.  “Isn’t tilling bad?” one student immediately asked.  I was taken aback.  ‘No-dig’ is not just an idea, but a doctrine, a creed, a badge of one’s eco-credentials. Proponents spread the message with revolutionary fervor. 

So is it time to put your tiller on Craigslist?  Let me weigh in on this complex issue and hopefully provide some clarity.  The gardening world has more than its fair share of old wives tales and superstitions.  This is particularly true with anything regarding soil.  We understand so little about what goes on in the soil, yet we dig, till, fertilize, and amend it with reckless zeal.  When it comes to soil cultivation, what’s true?

Here’s the bottom line: ‘no-dig’ is great, but not when the soil is severely compacted. 

After going through quite a bit of research, the evidence certainly favors the ‘no-dig’ approach.  Part of me really wanted to find flaws with this method; after all, breaking the soil before planting just feels so natural, so downright human.  Egyptian paintings 1200 years bc show people plowing fields.  But the evidence generally supports the wisdom of not digging.  Why? 

Soil is the weathered mantle of the earth.  It is not really even a solid, but a mix of mineral solids (45%), organic matter (5%), and water and air (25%). In its undisturbed state, soil is generally layered with the top few inches containing organic matter, the next few inches containing topsoil (soil that is mixed with organic matter), below that subsoil (generally denser and less organic), below that decomposed rock, and below that rock.  This basic structure is vitally important to plants, as this layering creates large pores (macropores) through which air and water move.  In addition, soil’s layered horizons create a living network of bacteria, fungus, molds, and other critters that symbiotically support plant growth.  Plant roots move through soil pores, following the air and water.  Plants grow their roots by connecting their root hairs onto mycorrhizal webs in the soil.  These fungi supply plants with nutrients and water while in return, they obtain sugars from the plant through photosynthesis.  At least 95% of plants are known to use mycorrhizal webs.

Mycorrhizae attach to roots
Tilling and digging disrupt this vital soil network.  When you sink a shovel in the ground and flip the soil over, you break the mycorrhizal network.  When you till, you may be breaking the soil into fine enough particles that it compacts even more, obliterating many of the necessary pores in the soil.  In fact, studies have shown that plants grown without tilling initially outperform plants grown in tilled soil.  At a larger scale, no-tillage agriculture has been proven to reduce erosion, increase crop yields, and decrease greenhouse gasses.

So should you get rid of that tiller?  Not just yet.  While the ‘no-dig’ method is generally a good way to plant, it does not work well in heavily compacted soils.  Compacted soils are common in human-disturbed landscapes.  Soils can get compacted enough that air and water no longer move through it.  Soils compacted to this level are deadly to plants.  If you plan to plant in heavily compacted soils, some method of decompaction—subsoiling, tilling, or aeration—is absolutely necessary.  Think throwing organic matter on top is good enough?  No way.  The problem with severe compaction is that it never goes away.  If air and water can’t move through it, it will not cure itself.

How can you tell if your soil is compacted enough to justify decompaction?  One of the simplest tools is a hand-held penetrometer.  This device has a rod that gets shoved into the ground and measures the resistance in pounds per square inch.  A small dial on the top will let you know what psi the soil is.  Generally anything above 250 psi should be decompacted.  Penetrometers cost a few hundred bucks, so they’re definitely worthwhile for a large site, or if you evaluate a lot of sites (all you landscape architects out there—get one for your firm).  But penetrometer are crude tools and vary somewhat depending on the velocity you shove it in the ground.  Other ways of measuring soil compaction is through Proctor test.  Generally anything above 85% proctor will inhibit root growth. 

Photo by William Cullina shows the effects of organic matter on post construction site.  The soil on the left received no organic matter. 
The soil in the middle had organic matter added only to the top few inches.  The soil on the right had organic matter incorporated
throughout.
Don’t want to bother with complicated compaction equipment?  The simplest way to test for compaction is to shove a pointed rod or stick into the ground.  If it can easily penetrate the ground to a depth of 8-12”, your soil is probably fine.  If it can’t, you may need to consider some method of decompaction.

The bottom line is that ‘no-dig’ and ‘no-till’ methods are great for relatively healthy soils.  But if you have a site in an urban area, or one that is under construction, expect compacted soils.  The best way to address deep compaction is to use some kind of subsoiling equipment.  Tillers breaks up soil into fine particles that ultimately compact more densely.  Subsoilers rip the earth--like a knife going through butter--in vertical lines that preserve the soil structure, while at the same time allowing air and water to pass through hardpan.  Subsoiling equipment is typically attached to a tractor, but in smaller sites any kind of trencher (like an irrigation trencher) will have the same effect.  Subsoil in lines 18-24" apart in both directions.  When subsoiling, check for underground utililties prior to ripping the soil.

If you plan to address compaction by adding organic matter, one must add enough organic matter (or topsoil, sand, peat moss) to make a difference.  Don’t just sprinkle some compost in the planting hole—this does almost nothing.  Organic amendments must be mixed to a depth of 18 inches minimally and enough added to reach 25 percent by volume in sandy loam or 50 percent by volume in clay in order to make a positive change in bulk density and macroporosity.  Decompacting soils is expensive and labor intensive, but worth it in the long run.

But if you have relatively healthy garden soil free of compaction, try a ‘no-dig’ approach.  It’s actually much easier, and you will be surprised by the results.
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Thursday, March 6, 2014

Botanicals for the Green Revolution The Prints of Angie Lewin


Angie Lewin is the artist for the green revolution.  Not since William Morris has an artist combined patterned abstraction with horticultural specificity.  Her hand-made prints show seed pods and grasses, clouds and moonlight, islands and cliffs.  Her linocuts and wood engravings are both specific and universal, a quality that has made her one of the most demanded printmakers in England.

Angie was not always strongly connected to the natural world.  For years Angie lived in north London as an illustrator.  When she and her husband decided to buy a holiday cottage on the coast road in Norfolk, everything changed.  The clifftops and saltmarshes of the North Norfolk coast inspired Angie to return to print making, a discipline she had studied in graduate school.  Angie had previously studied garden design in her thirties, but found it took the joy out of gardening.  But it did open her eyes to plants.  "I became fascinated by the structure of plants," says Angie, "especially those that were about to flower or had flowered already."

Her style is recognizable: the colors are a retro palette, and the arrangement is a mix of arts and crafts and mid-century modern.  But her eye for horticultural detail elevates her designs.  In her prints, you can feel the connection between plant and place, and its this element that makes her work strikingly original.  You get a sense from her work that if you see the plant well enough, you will know the larger landscape.  Though nature is abstracted, the ecology is still present. "I like looking at the landscape through the plants," Angie says.   

Goatsbeard, dandelions, cow parsley, fennel, and sea lavender--Angie is able to turn gardeners weeds into expansive landscapes.   The process is laborious and time-consuming.  For each print, Angie begins by sketching.  The sketches become detailed sketches, which then get cut into the wood.  Each color necessitates a separate block, each of which takes up to a week to cut.  If she makes a mistake while cutting, she has to start from the beginning.  The final piece is printed on delicate Japanese paper, one block at a time.  Since everything is done by hand, Angie only runs small prints.  "I have so many sketches that Im always keen to move on to the next print."

The end results have attracted attention.   Angies prints have donned the cover of garden writer Noel Kingsbury new book, Natural Garden Style.  Kingsubry has long trumpeted the value of the structure of plant, not just its bloom or color, so her art was a good philosphic fit.  In addition, Angie has completed covers for Leslie Geddes-Browns Garden Wisdom and Jeremy Pages Salt.  Author Leslie Geddes Brown explains, "The whole book was, in its turn, inspired by the art of Angie Levin, who brings her own vision of the natural world to her work." 

To learn more about Angie Lewins work, you can visit her website.

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LED Lighting is Perfect for Small Urban Gardens










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Wednesday, March 5, 2014

Landscape Designs for Small Spaces


Landscape Designs for Small Spaces often require more forethought and planning than whats needed for larger Spaces. A Small garden can include the traditional cottage garden or a contemporary spot at the back of a semi-detached situated amongst a conurbation; inner city roof terraces also lend themselves to Landscape Designs for Small Spaces. Invariably, for those with busy lives, perhaps with a full-time job and family to juggle, maintaining a garden comes way down on your list of priorities. So it is important that any Landscape Designs for Small Spaces take this factor into account. Naturally, that same family you are juggling will often need to use your Small garden for their own individual agendas: a place to store the family bikes, somewhere tranquil for al fresco eating and a safe place for your children to play. Landscape Designs for Small Spaces need to take all these activities into account.

Garden Design Requirements

To get the best from any garden design, you are going to want to write your ideas set down so that you can play around with different ideas. There are lots of computer-based programs you can use for drawing, although pen and paper are often just as good for the initial layout ideas. If you are intending to employ a professional garden designer you need to locate one whom you are able to work with and who is prepared to work within your overall budget while, at the same time, implementing your ideas. Before you get to the point of employing a professional, make sure you know what you realistically want from your garden and how much you can realistically afford to lay out on putting your ideas into practice.

Dont forget that you will need somewhere to store your summer garden furniture, your family bikes, the lawn mower and all the other paraphernalia that goes with outdoor living. Another thing you need to consider is whether you want your garden lit and, if so, the kind of lighting you intend to use. Planning permission is something you must remember not to overlook with any neighbourhood objections taken into account. Neighbors opinions are important when it comes to Landscape Designs for Small Spaces. After all, you dont want to fall out with your neighbor and, if their objections are particularly valid, you could find that your planning application could be refused.

Plants as an Integral Part of the Design

Keeping plant colors to just two or three can encourage your Landscape Designs for Small Spaces to be more effective in terms of an illusion of space and an overall greater impact. Rather than choosing plants with a wild array of different colors entirely, work your way through the different hues associated with a couple of base colours. Add texture and height to compensate for your lack of ground space: this will provide additional interest and carry the eye upwards. Soften the backdrop of tall walls and fences with espalier shrubs or fruit trees. The art of espalier has enabled even the Smallest patio to provide room for a fruit tree or two to grow.

The key to using plants as integral parts of Landscape Designs for Small Spaces is to repeat just a few varieties. For instance, you can mix and match apple, pear and plum trees espaliered against your boundary walls then, following your choice of colors, pick just two or three varieties of plants and stick with those, planting them within your design to maximum impact.
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Planning Your Back garden For Summer

As winter weather begins to come to a close, many homeowners are turning their attention to the coming summer time season. This is the best season to think about planning your back garden for summer time enjoyment. By now, we are all desire to get outside more, at least when the elements permits; and since there is no rush to get everything accomplished by the weekend, it is local plumber start planning for back garden farming tasks. There are some elements that can be done this season in planning even if you plan on doing a complete back garden renovating project later in the season.

One of the first elements that can be done to prepare the back garden for summer time tasks and actions is to remove any dirt that has gathered during wintertime months season. There may be some stays, leaves and other dirt that needs to be cleaned out, or raked up and removed. You may also choose to toss any dead vegetation that remain from last seasons farming or farming tasks.

It is a very great idea to examine various aspects and farming elements in the place. Extend up any decorative rocks or stones and create any necessary alternatives presently. Check your walls and other components to see what kinds of fixes may need to be made before the heat of summer time takes its toll on them once again.

There are many actions that can be carried out to start your summer time back garden farming tasks. It is okay to go forward and lay new compost in garden areas now. Depending on your location, you may go forward and start growing some kinds of plants and trees and shrubs that will be a part of your summer time farming. Now is also plenty of a chance to start growing lights for the flowers you will want to view and appreciate during summer time season season. Ensure that that the lights are satisfying choices and conditions will be favorable to their growth in your region. Getting ready to savor your back garden landscape designs in the summer time season season means starting some vegetation inside which will be placed outside in the garden as soon as the elements is permitting.

Pruning vegetation such as flowers can be done in planning for summer time season season as well. The general rule is that trimming can be done in several weeks that have an “r” in them. So you will want to have all of your outdoor vegetation, vegetation trimmed by the end of May.

This is also enjoyable to lay fresh seed for lawn. Simply break up the earth by using a rake; then drop the seed products around in the garden. Carefully " rake " across the seed products again to put them equally in the earth and water the place lightly. Grass seed products will soon develop and you will have a lovely, green garden to savor come summer time.

Mark is the owner of East Coast Landscape Style, and is a farming expert, he does landscape designs design in Bethesda MD, please visit, Backyard Landscape Designs to learn more about developing your ideal back garden.
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Monday, March 3, 2014

Best Houseplants for Indoor Gardening

Its a rainy day in March and I have been wanting to do a little segment on indoor houseplants, so it seemed to be a good time to do so.  While waiting for my outdoor plants to come to life here in the northeast I have been paying a little extra attention to my indoor plants in anticipation of the grander scheme outside.  Lets discuss some of the indoor plants that I have found to supply great pleasure at a low a maintenance cost.



A colorful versatile plant in the philodendron family is Golden Philodendron or Philodendron Brasil. It displays variegated heart-shaped leaves and is a climber that is happy as either a stand-alone piece or mixed with other plants.  Philodendron Brasil prefers bright-diffused indirect light and moderately moist soil with good drainage. It is for the most part carefree and is a nice addition to the indoor garden.


The next candidate is Clivia minata.  This beauty originates from South Africa and is known as "bush lily".  Its elongated dark green foliage alone makes it an attractive houseplant and in spring and fall the plant produces beautiful yellow-orange flowers that last for several weeks.  Clivia prefers low to medium light and well-drained soil.  Allow drying out in between watering and water weekly during the growing months and less in winter. Fertilize when blooms are produced.  This plant prefers to be root bound.



Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonemas) is a tropical evergreen known for its variegated green and white foliage and easy maintenance.  It prefers to be grown in low light in a moist, well-drained soil.  Aglaonemas produce white flowers occasionally in spring and summer that are better to be cut off because they do drain energy from the plant.  Chinese’s Evergreen is carefree and makes a nice house-warming gift for a low light area.

The next beauty is Croton, a multi-colored foliage plant for higher light areas. Croton is native to Southeast Asia and was once only grown outdoors. They have increased in popularity indoors because of their beautiful orange-green-yellow foliage. Croton grows best in a southwestern window in a moderately moist soil with high humidity. When kept in higher light these beauties will put on a show of color!


Another favorite indoor plant is Spathiphyllum or Peace Lily.  Spathiphyllum prefers to be grown in a moderately moist-well drained soil in diffused sunlight preferably in a northern or eastern window.  Peace Lily are easy to grow, have elongated glossy dark green foliage and frequently display their lovely white flowers that are formed from the leaf stalk of the plant. Spathiphyllum can be grown as a stand-alone piece or can be combined with other low light plants to make a lovely display.

Another plant in the Philodendron family is Philodendron Xanadu. Xanadu is a compact grower displaying medium-large finger-like leaves in the form of a full clumping plant. Philodendron Xanadu prefers to be root bound and grown in bright indirect light in a moist well-drained soil. When leaves yellow, simply pull them out by the stalk and new shoots and leaves will unfold to keep the plant full and attractive. Thumbs up for this one for it is low maintenance!



Another very low maintenance plant is Snake Plant or Mother-in-Laws Tongue. This easy to grow plant is very versatile, can be grown in low light to full light conditions in a slightly moist, well-drained soil. This plant is about as low maintenance as you can get and has been a popular houseplant favorite for years. Under the right conditions it will last for many years.
Jade Plant (Crassula argentea) is a popular succulent plant that displays small pink-white flowers if grown in a southern window. Jade prefers to be grown in bright direct light as in a southern or western window. Crassula argentea does not require much water and should only be watered when dry to the touch. When cared for properly this showpiece will last for many years and become a valued family member! 


Here is the newest addition to my houseplant family.  It is Zamioculcas Zamiifolia (nicknamed ZZ plant).  It thrives in nearly any lighting condition except darkness.  I have mine in indirect sun and it is doing just great.  As far as watering is concerned, Zamioculcas Zamiifolia is a tuber plant that stores its water intake.  It is best to let its soil completely dry out and then water thoroughly.  Zamioculcas Zamiifolia does not require much feeding. Feed four times a year with a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength.






There are many wonderful houseplants to light up your home on those "rainy days". These are just a few that can bring some enjoyment to your indoor garden!  Hope you enjoyed and Happy Gardening!

For more on houseplants visit Houseplants for Colorful Foliage & Winter Blooms.






Author: Lee @A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2011. All Rights Reserved.

 

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Sunday, March 2, 2014

Tips for Lighting Up Your Front Yard Landscape Design


Outdoor Lighting added to your front yard Landscape Design plan is an element that should not be forgotten. Outdoor Lighting will not only show off your beautiful Landscape when the sun goes down, but also aid in security and safety.

There are countless Lighting features you can purchase from the local building supply stores or online, but what fixtures will light the areas you want can be confusing. A flood light pointed in the wrong position can be blinding to invited guest or neighboring homes. Over Lighting a small specimen tree or under Lighting a large tree will look unprofessional.

As a Landscaper, like to start by studying the natural light in my yard provided by the moon, especially how a full moon casts a gentle glow and creates soft shadows as the light filters through a tree or illuminates a garden area. In garden Lighting, the effect will seem most natural when it imitates nature.
Illuminate focal points and safety hazards more brightly than less important areas. Arrange the Lighting to show visitors where to enter the driveway and in which way a path leads to the front of the house. If your street is lit by street lights, you may not need much Lighting. If there are no streetlights, provide some soft lights for the driveway. Remember to avoid bare lamps at eye level and other sources of glare. MoonLighting (lights placed high in the trees) can provide the soft Lighting needed for this situation. Lighting at the garage door and parking areas is critical to the safety and security of homeowners.

Make sure to hide the source of the light, it will look much more natural... remember the light should be seen not the fixture. You can hide the fixture high above the ground or use several smaller lights rather than one large bright light.

Your Lighting will be more attractive if you combine several techniques in the garden. For example, you might use moonLighting from tall trees as the main light source, then add occasional accent Lighting from low fixtures, and decorative area Lighting for the entrance of the home.

Keep fixtures out of the way and make sure to choose the location carefully so they wont interfere with mowing the lawn, walking, or plant growth.

Ideas for security Lighting

It isnt necessary for security Lighting to be harsh or glaring. It doesnt even need to be real bright. You can use attractive Lighting for illuminating safety on the main paths as well as security on the homes corners, porch, side and back doors, and any spots intruders might enter the property.

Tom Hoff is a Las Vegas Landscaper who owns his own company, Modern Landscape. To learn more about installing a front yard Landscape Design, check out his landscaping website. Be sure to also sign up for his free Landscape newsletter where hell show you how to save money installing your own Landscape.
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